The History of Japanese Houses

In ancient Japan, there were essentially two different types of houses. The first was what is known as a pit-dwelling house, in which columns are inserted into a big hole dug in the ground and then surrounded by grass. The second was built with the floor raised above the ground. The style of house with an elevated floor is said to have come to Japan from Southeast Asia, and this type of building was apparently used to store grain and other foods so that they wouldn't spoil from heat and humidity.

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A model of a shinden-zukuri house (National Museum of Japanese History)
In around the eleventh century, when Japan's unique culture came into full bloom, members of the aristocracy began to build a distinctive style of house for themselves called shinden-zukuri. This type of house, which stood in the midst of a large garden, was symmetrical, and its rooms were connected with long hallways. It allowed residents to enjoy seasonal events and the beauty of nature.

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Shoin-zukuri (Jisho-ji)
As political power passed from the nobles to the samurai (warrior class) and a new form of Buddhism made its way to Japan, core aspects of traditional Japanese culture as we know it today began to take root, including ikebana(flower arranging), the tea ceremony, and Noh. The samurai created their own style of house called shoin-zukuri. This influence can be seen in the alcove ornament of the guest rooms of modern houses.

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A house in the gassho style (Shirakawa Village)
The houses of common people developed differently. Farmers in different regions of the country had houses that were adapted to local conditions. The houses built in the gasshostyle in Shirakawa-go, which is listed as a World Heritage site, are examples of residences in which common people lived. Some farmers' houses had space to keep their cattle and horses indoors, while the houses of city dwellers were often squeezed close together along the streets. As urban homeowners were taxed based on the width of the front side of the house, their houses were built to be long and narrow. This style can still be seen today in older cities like Kyoto.

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A kura-zukuri style house (Kawagoe City)
Housing continued to develop in the Meiji era (1868-1912). Some towns had houses built in the kura-zukuri style, which featured Japanese-looking exteriors but were made from more fire-resistant materials. The style that is the basis for Japanese homes today, which usually have a long hallway through the middle of the house with rooms on each side, is said to combine foreign culture with the style of house preferred by the samurai.

Now that we've examined the history of Japanese houses, how about playing a game where you can experience a real Japanese house?
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The Structure of a Japanese House

Traditional Japanese houses are built by erecting wooden columns on top of a flat foundation made of packed earth or stones. Wooden houses exist all over the world. What are the particular characteristics of houses in Japan, where there are four distinct seasons, including a hot and humid summer and a cold winter?
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A family sits on zabuton. (The Japan Forum)
In order to avoid moisture from the ground, the floor is elevated several tens of centimeters and is laid across horizontal wooden floor beams. Areas like the kitchen and hallways have wooden flooring, but rooms in which people sit, such as the living room, are covered with mats called tatami that are made from woven rush grass. Japanese generally don't use chairs on top of tatami, so people either sit directly on the tatami or on flat cushions called zabuton. This is why people take off their shoes when entering a Japanese house.
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The eaves also keep out the rain.
The frame of a Japanese house is made of wood, and the weight is supported by vertical columns, horizontal beams, and diagonal braces. Diagonal braces came to be used when the technology of foreign countries was brought to Japan. One characteristic of Japanese houses is that they have a large roof and deep eaves to protect the house from the hot summer sun, and the frame of the house supports the weight of the roof.
In the old days, the walls of houses were made of woven bamboo plastered with earth on both sides. Nowadays, though, many different types of materials have been developed, and plywood is often used. Also, in the past, many houses had columns that were exposed outside the walls. But in the Meiji era (1868-1912), houses came to be made using a method that encases the columns inside the walls in order to reduce the possibility of fire. Many roofs in the past were covered with shingles or straw, but these days most are covered with tiles calledkawara. The roof is the part of the house most affected by rain, wind, snow, sunlight, and other natural conditions. Although there are a number of differences among the roofs seen in different areas of Japan, they all have one thing in common: They are sloped instead of flat, allowing rainwater to flow off easily.
Japanese houses have developed over the years by combining traditional forms with modern technology to improve their resistance to fire and their convenience. Recently, though, people are beginning to look anew at the traditional methods of building houses, which are easy on the environment and last a long time. You can visit a virtual Japanese house by playing the game that accompanies this article.
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History of pools and fountains

Ancient World

As seen in tomb paintings from 3000 BC, the Egyptians planted gardens within the walled enclosures surrounding their homes. In time these gardens came to be formally laid out around a rectangular fish pond flanked by rows of fruit trees and ornamental plants. 
In the highlands of Mesopotamia, the Assyrians and Persians planned rectangular walled formal gardens, irrigated by pools and canals and shaded by trees, usually set in vast plains. These gardens symbolized paradise and inspired Persian carpet designs. 
Roman houses, similar to Greek houses, included a colonnaded garden, as depicted in wall paintings at Pompeii and as described by Pliny the Elder. The vast grounds of the Emperor Hadrian's villa near Tivoli (2nd century AD) were magnificently landscaped. The Roman populace enjoyed gardens attached to the public baths.

Non-Western World

Living where the climate is generally hot and dry, the Muslims were inspired by the desert oasis and the ancient Persian paradise garden centered on water. Muslim gardens were usually one or more enclosed courts surrounded by cool arcades and planted with trees and shrubs. They were enlivened with colored tilework, fountains and pools, and the interplay of light and shade. Before the 15th century, the Moors in Spain built such gardens at Córdoba, Toledo, and especially at the Alhambra in Granada. Similar gardens, in which flowers, fruit trees, water, and shade were arranged in a unified composition, were built by the Mughals in 17th- and 18th-century India. The most notable examples are the Taj Mahal gardens in Agra and the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore. 
In China, palaces, temples, and houses were built around a series of courtyards, which might include trees and plants (often in pots that could be changed with the seasons), and pools. The Imperial City in Beijing contained elaborate pleasure gardens with trees, artificial lakes and hillocks, bridges, and pavilions. 
Japan has a long tradition of gardens inspired by those of China and Korea. Kyoto was especially famous for its gardens which included pools and waterfalls; rocks, stone, and sand; and evergreens. Every element of a garden was carefully planned, sometimes by Zen monks and painters, to create an effect of restraint, harmony, and peace. 

Medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque Periods

In medieval Europe at the 9th-century Swiss abbey of St. Gall, the large garden was divided into four areas, for herbs, vegetables, fruits, and flowers. The gardens of most monasteries were surrounded by cloistered walks and had a well or fountain at the center, possibly inspired by Persian gardens, which was intended to enhance meditation. Fountain in Florence, Italy.
During the Renaissance in Italy, castles gave way to palaces and villas with extensive grounds landscaped in the Roman tradition. Borders of tall, dark cypresses and clipped yew hedges, geometric flower beds, stone balustrades, fountains, and sculptures conformed strictly to the overall plan. Examples from the 15th century include the gardens of the Medici, Palmieri, and La Pietra villas in or near Florence. Among increasingly formal and elaborate villa complexes in the 16th century are the Villa Lante in Bagnaia and the Villa Farnese in Caprarola. Others are the Villa Madama and the Villa Medici in Rome and the Villa d'Este in Tivoli. Italian gardens of the 17th century became even more complex in the dramatic baroque style. They were distinguished by lavish use of serpentine lines, groups of sculptured allegorical figures in violent movement, and a multiplicity of spouting fountains and waterfalls. Examples are the Villa Aldobrandini in Frascati, Villa Garzoni in Collodi, Villa Giovio in Como, and the gardens on the Isola Bella in Lake Maggiore. French Royal Gardens.
Modified versions of Italian Renaissance and baroque gardens appeared throughout Europe. In Spain, Moorish and Renaissance elements were combined in the gardens of the Alcázar in Seville. In France the great châteaus of the Loire valley, such as Chambord and Chenonceaux, were laid out with formal gardens, and with extensive forested parks. 
In the 17th century, France replaced Italy as the primary inspiration of architectural and landscape design. The vast building programs of Louis XIV included miles of symmetrically arranged gardens, which, like royal architecture of the period, were designed to give an impression of limitless grandeur. The grounds were regularly intersected by radiating alleys lined with trees or hedges and embellished with fountains, pavilions, and statuary. Versailles and its immense gardens spawned splendid imitations in dozens of kingdoms and principalities throughout Europe.

Romantic Period

In the late 18th century the rise of romanticism, with its emphasis on untamed nature, the picturesque, the past, and the exotic, led to important changes in landscape architecture as well as in other arts. At such great houses as Blenheim Palace and Chatsworth, English architects replaced the symmetrically arranged flower beds and straight walks with sweeping lawns, sloping hills with curving paths, and rivers and ponds punctuated by informally planted groups of trees and shrubbery, to achieve the effect of a wilderness. 
The English romantic style spread to the rest of Europe by way of France, where a notable example of the style was created at Ermenonville. It was introduced in North America at Monticello, Jefferson's Virginia estate. The most important example of this style is Central Park, New York City, designed in 1857.

20th Century

Domestic architecture in the first half of the 20th century attempted to achieve a closer integration of the house with its surroundings. In areas with mild climates, such as California, a garden might be continued within the house. With today's apartment-style living, many architects seek to incorporate natural elements into their interior designs. Indoor pools and water fountains are enjoying great popularity in shopping malls, offices, and homes. They offer an oasis of cool tranquility in an otherwise hectic world.
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Japanese New Year
For the Japanese, Oshogatsu (New Year; literally, "new month"), is the most important celebration of the year, a festive occasion with good feelings and nostalgia. The Japanese New Year's celebrations evolved out of rituals associated with the changes of season, which are of utmost importance in Japanese farming. The New Year's events are widely celebrated and enjoyed in Japan, beginning on New Year's eve with the tradition of striking the joya no kane (end-of-the-year bell) from nearby Buddhist temples. The tolls represent the leaving behind of 108 bonno, or worldly concerns of the old year, which, according to Buddhist belief, torment mankind. During this ceremony, each toll is struck after the reverberations from the preceding toll have dissipated. The last peal of the bell is struck at midnight, coinciding with the first few seconds of the New Year; thus a new beginning dawns, enabling the start of a prosperous and joyous year. A Japanese New Year feast augurs well for the future.
Throughout most of its history, Japan went by the lunar calendar, so the holiday would fall at different dates on the Gregorian calendar. But these days, New Year's is observed on January 1. 
The Japanese New Year's holiday used to last several days; now it's been pared down to just three. New Year's Eve is devoted to kite flying and other fun and games. January 1 and 2 are feast days. 
Most Japanese households -- and most families of Japanese descent living in the United States -- still observe rituals that go back as far as the Edo period of the 17th century. New Year's resolutions in Japan are made to bring prosperity and happiness for the future. Any unfinished business requires attention at the end of the year, so houses are cleaned, debts are paid, and foods are prepared prior to the New Year so the holiday can be enjoyed with leisure. Wearing new clothing, family members rise early on New Year's morning and visit the family shrine before they settle down to a breakfast of ozoni, the traditional soup made in any number of regional styles, and join in a toast for good fortune with otoso, (sweet sake brewed with cinnamon and other spices), which is believed to prevent sickness. Friends and family spend New Year's day visiting one another. The New Year is considered a time of forgiveness and cordiality to all. Japanese characters for 'Happy New Year!'
In Japan, as the end of the year approaches, the customary and familiar symbols of the New Year appear in the streets and in homes. Many of the symbols are based upon or linked to the Shinto, Buddhist, or folk traditions of Japan. The kudomatsu or "gate-pine" is an arrangement of pine, bamboo, and sometimes plum blossom. The arrangement is placed on either side of the front entrance to the house to ward off evil dominance and invoke fertility, growth, and the power to resist adversity and old age. The pine represents strength, longivity and youthful optimism. The bamboo, which is straight and unbending, symbolizes resilience, uprightness, rapid growth and finial piety; it leans with the wind, but does not break. The apricot or plum braves the winter season and has sweet blossoms despite the cold and snowy weather. They symbolize steadfastness in adversity and are looked upon as a good omen for child-bearing. Fertility is also associated with kazunoko (herring roe) and ikura (red salmon roe), both of which must grace the holiday table. The kadomatsu symbolizes the hope of the household that the upcoming year will bring vigor, long life, and strength to all family members. The shimenawa is fresh rice-straw laced in a particular fashion to form a rope. This ornament is placed at the entrance of the house or over cooking stoves during the oshogatsu season. In the Shinto tradition, the shimenawa indicates a sacred area. It is believed that no evil can pass beyond the line of the shimenawa. 
Color is also important. White and red are especially favored, with white denoting innocence and purity, and red representing the sun and its bursting energy. 
Although the traditional Japanese New Year's feast requires hours upon hours in the kitchen, almost everything can and should be prepared well in advance. Some of the most enjoyable New Year's dinners are either shabu-shabu -- where diners cook their own meals in a communal pan placed in the center of the table, selecting paper-thin sliced beef, fish and vegetables from trays placed on the table -- or mixed sushi. Like shabu-shabu, mixed sushi is another do-it-yourself preparation, though the host or cook has to do a lot of prep work. Each diner is served mori (seaweed squares), a bowl of sushi rice and small bowls with wasabi and dipping sauce. They then select from a lavish tray laden with all manner of foods to create their own sushi. Since the god of the New Year is responsible for the rice crop, a sake offering is also very appropriate. It's all part of osechi, or offering food to the gods and ensuring a healthy, prosperous and wise year ahead. We all raise our sake cups to that!
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Japanese Language
Japanese is believed to be linked to the Altaic language family, which includes Turkish, Mongolian and other languages, but also shows similarities to Austronesian languages like Polynesian.


Writing:
The Japanese writing system consists of three different character sets: Kanji (several thousands of Chinese characters) and Hiragana and Katakana (two syllabaries of 46 characters each; together called Kana). Japanese texts can be written in two ways: In Western style, i.e. in horizontal rows from the top to the bottom of the page, or in traditional Japanese style, i.e. in vertical columns from the right to the left side of the page. Both writing styles exist side by side today.

 Grammar:
Basic Japanese grammar is relatively simple. Complicating factors such as gender articles and distinctions between plural and singular are missing almost completely. Conjugation rules for verbs and adjectives are simple and almost free of exceptions. Nouns are not declinated at all, but appear always in the same form.

 Pronunciation:
In comparison with other languages, Japanese knows relatively few sounds, and pronunciation poses little problems to most learners. The biggest difficulty are accents, which do exist, but to a much lower extent than in the Chinese language. In addition, there are relatively many homonyms, i.e. words that are pronounced the same way, but have different meanings.

 Levels of speech:
Different words and expressions are used when talking to an unknown person or a superior, as opposed to when talking to a child, family member or a close friend. For instance, there are more than five different words for the English word "I", which are used depending on the context. For formal situations, a honorific language level (keigo) is still in common use.
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Japan: Onsen (Public Bath) Etiquette

Onsens are public baths with water sourced from the hot springs that can be found across the volcanic island of Japan. But that is too simple an explanation for such a wonderful experience. Do not leave Japan without giving these a fair shake. There are just a few simple rules you need to know.
To begin your onsen journey, come prepared. Bring a shower caddy with your favorite soap, shampoo and a washcloth, and bring a towel. Most onsens will provide towels. Many provide soap and shampoo dispensers. You will enter a changing room with lockers, and probably baskets. It's generally safe in Japan to just leave things in the baskets. The lockers can be used though there may be an additional charge for them. In the locker room, you shed your clothes and hopefully any inhibitions you might have about public nudity.
The most important rule, and one you learn to appreciate, is the baths are for soaking only, not cleaning. The cleaning you do beforehand. All onsens will have an area for you to wash and rinse before you enter the bath. The hand held showers will be different than what you may be accustomed to, since the showers may be only about chest high in some places. Small plastic stools are provided for you to sit on as you shower.
Once you're clean and rinsed, it's time to walk from the showers to the baths. Test the waters before you get in! Some are temperate, some incredibly hot, and some absolutely freezing (more on those in a minute). And now.... relax. Everyone's cleaned up before they got in, so you can feel safe sitting down. If you bring a hand towel with you, try not to put the towel in the water. Wring it outside of the water pool and put it either on the rim of the pool or on your head. After enjoying soaking, rinse again and dry as much as you can with the wringed wash towel. Do not go out to the change room dripping wet. It creates a slip safety hazard for you and others. Some people might find it nice to bring a cool bottle of water (encouraged) or beer (discouraged).  Some onsens have vending machines where you can purchase soft drinks and beer.
Depending on the size of the onsen, there may be several baths to try. Feel free to try them all , but do pay attention to any signs next to the pools. While rare, some onsens have electric pools. These are well marked with pictoral symbols, so you won't get in one by accident. If you do find one of these, don't expect to feel it as soon as your feet touch the water. The current come from a rubber mat visible on the walls of the bath; the closer you are to the mat, the stronger the current feels.
If you want to stay longer, but it's just too darn hot, you can try to reset your body temperature by doing the cold plunges. Most onsens have one. Remember, you might be dehydrated from sweating.  Know your limit and physical conditions. Some faint occasionally, especially after drinking beer.
There a huge variety of onsens in Japan, spanning the range from those with several pools, waterfalls, and outdoor tubs, to old one-tub numbers with rusty pipes.  Prices can vary from 200 yen to 2000 yen.  Happy bathing!

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Theater

A Night At The Theater


You’re in Tokyo with InsideJapan Tours – why not take in the theatre? If you are shopping or just window-shopping in Ginza in the heart of Tokyo, you are only a few minutes’ walk from the Shimbashi Embujo.  Here you can arrive around 4.00pm, drink in the atmosphere of excited crowds of theatre-goers milling around the many stalls selling theatrical souvenirs, then sit in a comfortable seat watching the amazing performance on stage and listening to an English translation through an earphone.  The long interval gives you time for a full meal at one of the theatre restaurants.

Most months of the year the theatre you will watch will be kabuki, one of Japan’s three main traditional theatre genres. Kabuki began in the seventeenth century and quickly developed a highly stylised type of acting that has been popular ever since. All parts in kabuki are played by men and some of its greatest actors specialise in playing female characters. Kabuki stars are part of Japan’s celebrity culture and you will often see their faces on advertising billboards or in TV commercials.

Apart from kabuki, the puppet theatre (Bunraku), with each puppet being manipulated by three puppeteers, also dates from the seventeenth century, and noh, a more stately form of danced theatre in which many main actors wear wooden masks, can  trace its history back to the fourteenth century. Bunraku is most regularly played in Osaka at the National Bunraku Theatre and earphone guides are also available there. Noh can be watched at the National Noh Theatre in Tokyo, and each seat has a personal subtitling system.

Japan has preserved its traditional theatre forms, but it has a vibrant modern theatre as well. The country was virtually cut off from the rest of the world for two centuries from the mid-1600s to the mid-1800s, but when it discovered what European theatre was like, it eagerly embraced the major European playwrights: Shakespeare, Ibsen etc.

So in the late nineteenth century two great theatre cultures collided in Japan. Some thought kabuki should be protected at all costs, others that it could modernise by adopting Western conventions, for example that female parts should be played by actresses. 

In the 1920s the idea grew strongly that traditional theatre should be rejected and an entirely new Japanese theatre, based on the European model, should be developed. All traditional Japanese theatre had been non-realistic – presentational rather than representational – so establishing realism in playwriting, acting and directing became a priority.

Then in the 1960s realism itself was rejected and ‘underground’ theatre – we might use the word ‘fringe’ or ‘off-Broadway’ – burst onto the scene. Radical politically and open to anything in its performance techniques, this heady mix of kaleidoscopic styles and raw emotions re-energised theatre in Japan. It developed into the ‘little theatre’ (shôgekijô) movement, experimental theatre performed in small acting spaces.

In the early twenty-first century much contemporary theatre has been going through a calmer and more contemplative phase. 

Over the past century while these new developments have been taking place almost nothing from the past has been lost. Japan’s theatre is so extraordinarily rich that in a short stay there you could see everything mentioned here and a lot more. There are not many places in the world where you can see fourteenth-century theatre one day, realistic theatre the next, eighteenth-century puppets the next and an ultra-avant garde show the day after.

So how do you go about planning your theatre-going in Japan and getting tickets? The easiest way is to leave this to InsideJapan Tours. However, you can do some preparation before you go by reading A Guide to the Japanese Stage, From Traditional to Cutting Edge by Ronald Cavaye, Paul Griffith and Akihiko Senda (Kodansha International 2004; Amazon refer to it wrongly as World of the Japanese Stage). There are good articles on traditional theatre in Wikipedia: kabuki, Bunraku and noh.  There are many video clips of all three on YouTube.
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Samurai

Samurai and ‘the way of the warrior’

For those interested in Japanese history samurai culture and the role this military class played in shaping Japan is a fascinating one. Although samurai no longer exist, the influence of these great warriors still manifests itself deeply in Japanese culture and samurai heritage can be seen all over Japan, be it a great castle, a carefully planned garden, or beautifully preserved samurai residences.  It is also deeply ingrained in the psyche of the Japanese people.
The basis of samurai conduct was that of bushido, ‘the way of the warrior’. This unique philosophy dictated one of honour, reckless bravery and selflessness; of duty to a warrior’s master with the purpose of giving up one’s life and embracing death. There was no place for fear in the way of the warrior and this conduct of self discipline and respectful, ethical behaviour was one that became the role model behaviour for other classes throughout Japan’s history.

 Highly literate men of war and leadership
Not only were the samurai skilful warriors, but they were also expected to be highly cultured and literate; to be skilled in the harmony of fighting and learning. An ancient saying aspired to by warriors was ‘Bun Bu Ryo Do’, ‘the pen and sword in accord’ and it was common for samurai to enjoy calligraphy, tea ceremony, poetry and music, and to study.
It was these highly aspired ideals of educated warriors that allowed for the cohesion of samurai armies and for their power to eventually dominate government.  In 1160, the Taira clan beat the Minamoto clan and Taira no Kiyomori established the first samurai-lead government with the emperor losing control and being relegated to figurehead status. 
Up until that time, throughout the Heian Period (794-1185), samurai had been employed to serve in close attendance with nobility, protecting the land of the wealthy: Aided by political backing and resources the samurai had come into political power. Taira’s control did not last long though as in 1192, at the start of the Kamakura Period (1192-1333), Minamoto Yorimoto received the title of Shogun and gained rule of Japan.
Various bakufu or shogunate ruled over the centuries, each shaping the leadership of the country in their own way with the samurai continuously influencing the classes with their ideals of high literacy and education. Such was the influence of these elite warriors that during the Edo period (1603 - 1868) levels of literacy were higher than that of central Europe.

The calm mind of a warrior
From the 13th century Samurai conduct became heavily influenced by Zen Buddhism.
By being present in the moment, Zen training allowed a samurai to become one with their sword and the free and spontaneous mind gave them the mental edge over their enemy. Zen meditation calmed the mind and gave a warrior philosophical strength to deal with their inevitable death.
Zen complimented and influenced the way of the warrior and over four centuries Zen practices, such tea ceremony, monochrome ink painting, rock gardens, and poetry (haiku)  introduced by monks were allowed to flourish thanks to these great warriors. Buddhist teachings had such an immense effect that as they became more ingrained in samurai life some samurai lost meaning in killing and gave up their sword for lives as monks. 

 Samurai and the sword.
Synonymous with samurai bravery is the katana or samurai sword and bushido dictated that this curved, slender blade was the soul of a warrior. Images of samurai depict them with their masterfully crafted weapons of war and together with the shorter blade of a wakizashi, this pair, known as the daisho represented the social status and personal honour of the samurai.
In the mid 1600s, Miyamoto Musashi, the highly revered and undefeated swordsman and samurai wrote Go Rin Sho, The Book of Five Rings. Widely published today his teachings on military strategy and tactics draw heavily on Tibetan and Zen philosophy and he advocated the use of both the katana and the wakizashi simultaneously in battle.
During the Edo period the Tokugawa shogunate sought to achieve a unified Japan and towards the end of this relatively peaceful time the role of the samurai changed from that of warrior to courtier, bureaucrat and administrator, and with it the original use of the katana. Although they continued to carry their swords they were now more a symbol of power rather than a means of defence.
Not only master swordsmen, samurai were also proficient in using the yumi or longbow. When the longbow ceased to be used as a weapon the art of kyujutsu, the skill of the bow, was adapted to a sporting activity.  Yabusame, the practice of shooting from horseback was introduced into Shinto ceremonies and this form of archery can still be enjoyed today in certain festivals throughout Japan. 

Decline of the warrior
The decline of the samurai came in the late 19th century as Japan opened its borders to the US navy and the power was given back to the Imperial family in the Meiji restoration in 1868. Samurai became known as shizoku, a term which represented their former samurai status, and they were no longer allowed to wear a katana in public.
In the late 19th century samurai class was abolished in favour of a western-style national army, and as a result many of the samurai became highly motivated and disciplined Imperial Army Officers or used their high levels of literacy to become reporters, writers or to serve in government.

 Samurai heritage
Japan is proud of its warriors of the past and the way of the warrior can be found all over this beautiful country be it visiting one the great castles that were witness to many a bloody battle, experiencing a festival with its origins in samurai culture; visiting the grounds of great samurai battles in history or a pilgrimage to the small cave where Musashi wrote the Book of Five Rings.
Samurai ideals have transcended throughout Japanese history and understanding the samurai heritage provides an interesting insight into today’s modern society and the respect, discipline and honour that is prevalent throughout this unique nation and that the rest of the world admires. 
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Manga & Anime

Manga & Anime

As Manga (Japanese comics) and Anime (Japanese animation) have become integral parts of modern Japanese life and culture, there is no way of escaping their influence wherever you go in the country. Without either of them, Japan would definitely not be the colourful and intriguing country that it is.
The modern forms of Manga and Anime date back to drawing styles and techniques that emerged after World War II. Whilst the country has modernised and changed significantly since, many aspects of Japanese culture and values have remained the same, meaning that the characters and stories are still very much relevant to audiences of all ages today. 
You don’t necessarily need to be an otaku (the Japanese word for “geek” but with less negative connotations than the English translation) to dip your toe into this side of Japanese culture. Manga and Anime characters can be found literally everywhere: advertising, fashion, omiyage (souvenirs), food, stationery and the all important mobile phone accessory are just a few examples.

 Manga
Manga books are generally printed in black and white and cover a wide variety of genres and subject matter aimed at both sexes and all ages, not just for young boys who comics are generally marketed to in the West. Themes include romance, action adventure, science fiction, comedy, sports and can also venture into darker subject matter for adults such as horror and more risqué material; though the latter tends not to be acknowledged in everyday life and culture. 
As it makes up a large section of Japan’s publishing industry, Manga books can be found and seen everywhere. People reading Manga on trains during rush hour is a common sight in Tokyo as well as the rest of the country. Every town will have a book store with aisles upon aisles of different Manga genres and larger cities even have stores entirely dedicated to the medium over multiple storeys. Convenience stores are quite happy for patrons to stand and read Manga even if they are not going to buy and many waiting rooms and restaurants have bookshelves with popular serialisations.
Most Manga aimed at children uses a simplistic style and the adorable characters feed Japan’s love for all things kawaii (cute). Characters also have oversized eyes through which the artists are able to convey emotion more easily. Below are a few examples of the more popular manga comics amongst children:
AstroBoy (created by Osamu Tezuka and first published in 1952) is about a world where humans and robots co-exist. The protagonist, AstroBoy, is a robot who uses his superior powers to fight crime and as a result of the care and attention of his owner is able to experience human emotions.         
Doraemon (created by Fujiko F Fujio and first published in 1969) follows a blue robotic cat who has travelled back in time from the 24th Century to help a young schoolboy, Nobita Nobi, through the trials and tribulations of life.
DragonBall (Created by Akira Toriyama and first published in 1984) follows Goku and his friend Bulma exploring a mythical earth, learning martial arts and searching for “dragonballs” which summon a magical dragon that assists them in times of danger.     
  
As you move away from the books aimed at children and to those aimed at teenagers and young adults, the themes can become a little darker, however, the general ideas of good overcoming evil still remain. The style of the artwork is a lot more detailed and realistic, however, physical features of the characters are still over stylised and exaggerated. Below you will find a couple of examples popular amongst the teenage audience:
Bleach (created by Noriaki Kubo and first published in 2001) is about a teenager named Ichigo who gains the power of Soul Reaper (similar to a death god) and protects the human world against evil spirits as well as guiding deceased spirits safely to the after-world.
Death Note (created by Tsugumi Oba and first published in 2003) follows Light, a Senior High School student, who receives the “Death Note” from a death god. When Light writes the name of a person in the notebook their life comes to an end so he takes it upon himself to rid the world of criminals and evil.
Both Bleach and Death Note, along with other popular serialisations, have been published in English. However, their popularity in Western countries are not on the same scale as in Japan, but interest is growing.
  
Anime
Once certain Manga have proven their worth by popularity, the natural progression is for an animated TV series to be created, however, Manga is not the only source of inspiration for Anime. For example, Pokémon was a worldwide hit as a video game for Nintendo before it was made into Manga and Anime series.
The obvious differences from Manga such as colour, movement and sound bring Anime to life, but there is one additional element which is extremely important: the theme song. Artists from the J-pop and J-rock world are all falling over themselves to write the theme songs for the next big Anime series as it is almost a guaranteed hit and provides great exposure. The anticipation of which artist it will be can often out shadow the Anime itself, being the topic of hot discussion in school playgrounds and internet forums.  
One of Japan’s most famous, successful and critically acclaimed animators is Hayao Miyazaki, co-director of Studio Ghibli which was founded in 1985. His long career has seen him create numerous original feature films in the animated form which have touched the hearts of the Japanese people as well as the rest of the world. On a visual level, his animation style is very unique and cannot be mistaken, especially as his characters tend to have small eyes, going against the usual trend for larger eyes as mentioned earlier. Another distinguishing feature of his work is that most of the protagonists are strong independent girls or women.

Some of Miyazaki’s most famous works include Princess Momonoke, My Neighbour Totoro and Spirited Away, which won the Oscar for Best Animated Feature at the 75th Academy Awards.
Many popular Anime series and Miyazaki films have found some levels of success elsewhere in the world after being dubbed into various languages but, to get the real sentiment of the work, they really do need to be watched in Japanese. 
Most visitors to Japan simply skim the surface of Manga and Anime by visually appreciating the characters which pop up wherever you go with no real knowledge of who they are. However, a little research into this fantasy world can enrich your time in Japan as your knowledge of characters will create instant common ground with Japanese people you may meet and you will find yourself actively searching for and spotting the characters you know. If you do decide to delve deeper into these vast worlds then be careful: once you are in it is very difficult to find your way out and before you know it, you may be considered (or even call yourself) an Otaku.
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Drink


"Kampai!" 
Japan is a country of drinkers - and a few rituals should be considered before taking a tipple. Never pour a drink for yourself; your friend or host should do this for you and you in turn should keep your companions' glasses filled to the brim! A word you'll hear quite often is kampai - 'cheers' in Japanese.

Unlike in the West the culture of going out for just a drink does not really exist in Japan. Drinking is almost always accompanied by a meal or otsumami (a light snack). Otsumami usually comes in the form of a plate of edamame (soy beans), surume (dried shredded squid) or arare (small rice crackers ¨C literally translated as hailstones!).  

Whilst sake (rice wine) is the national drink of Japan, lager-beer (pronounced beer-ru in Japanese) is the most popular drink. Widely available brands include Kirin, Sapporo, Suntory, and Asahi. They are all worth a taste and average about 5% abv.  Watch out for cheaper brands though - these are not actually beer at all but happoshu, a malt flavoured beverage. This looks and tastes like cheap beer but the low malt content allows the brewers to avoid beer taxes! As for the Sake, our advice is to have the cheap stuff (a little rough on the palate) hot, but drink the quality brands (strong and fresh tasting) well chilled.

When times are hard and the strong yen pushes up the cost of a pint, a word worth remembering is "nomihoudai" (drink as much as you like). Head to your nearest Izakaya (Japanese drinking establishment which also serves food) for the best nomihoudai deals - usually ranging from 2000-3000yen per person. Remember that the whole group have to be on the same deal and it is usually limited to an hour or two! Many restaurants also offer similar deals even if not on the menu so it is worth asking as if you plan to stay in the same place for some time as it can work out cheaper than paying for individual drinks. Karaoke box is also a great place to pick up good drinking deals where you not only get "utaihoudai" (all you can sing), but also nomihoudai. The drinks menu at karaoke box is usually extensive and full of brightly coloured drinks, a few spirits and a choice of one or two beers. British style drinking establishments are limited to a handful of overpriced mock pubs usually found in the larger cities and are generally best avoided.     

A wide variety of alco-pops called Chu-hai are available. Get them from a Konbini (convenience store) such as Lawsons, 7/11,  Circle K or Family Mart, or in a restaurant or bar. Chu-hai is made from Shochu, typically distilled from barley, sweet potatoes, or rice which can also be drunk neat. Whisky is very popular amongst Japanese men - Scotch is considered the best and is highly sought after. Many Japanese whiskies are now gaining popularity in the west. The two biggest brands are Nikka and Suntory. Yoichi and Yamazaki are considered to be among the best whiskies in the world. 

Drinks on the go
Japan is a nation obsessed with vending machines which you will find on almost every street corner. There is approximately one vending machine for every 23 people in Japan, the highest number per capita in the world. With so many vending machines comes a vast array of drinks. More new soft drink beverages hit the market in Japan than anywhere else in the world. In a country seemingly obsessed with hatsubai (new products), 300 to 1,000 new fresh and funky flavours appear annually. For those that need a coffee or tea fix on the go, hot canned drinks are also available.
 

Cha cha cha

Finally, we couldn¡¯t write an article about drinking in Japan without including tea. One thing the Japanese definitely have in common with the British is that they love a cuppa! For tea connoisseurs Japan is a tea haven. The Japanese word for tea is "cha" and there are countless varieties ranging from classic green teas through to the more unusual mugicha (barley tea), sobacha (buckwheat tea), genmaicha (brown rice tea), umecha (powdered plum tea) and many more.
       
"Sado" (Japanese green tea ceremony) is an ancient tradition with roots traced back to Zen Budhism. Literally translated as ¡°the way of the tea¡± the ceremony involves the preparation and drinking of tea. As with all Japanese arts, sado requires years of study and perfection to master. Sado is widely taught in schools across Japan and still remains a popular hobby today. It is well worth watching a ceremony if you get the chance. The strict etiquette, graceful movement and elegance in which the way the tea is prepared, poured and drunk is quite a sight. 

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Japanese Gardens
The beauty of a Japanese garden has long been admired; well renowned for their tranquil and serene environments, as well as their unique and impressive aesthetics, Japanese gardens have long captured the imagination of the Western world, influencing landscape designers and gardeners in abundance. As many have discovered, the ability to create these delicately constructed and organic artworks is something to admire. Japanese gardens exist today as symbols of the many influences that have infiltrated Japanese culture; whether religious, or purely social, the typified characteristics of these beautiful gardens exist as a consequence of a dramatic cultural blend.
Above all, Japanese gardens demonstrate the Buddhist influences which were brought into Japan in 612; Ono-no-Imoko, an emissary from Japan, visited China and was able to absorb enough of the Buddhist way of life to recreate it once he returned home. At this time, gardens in Japan were solely created as religious representations of various beliefs- which established a comfortable common ground with the Chinese Buddhists. Every element of a Buddhist garden bursts with religious significance; pathways lead to enlightenment, whilst the soil represents the fertility and nurturing nature of Buddha’s mind. Nonetheless, whilst some of the Buddhist ideas were adopted in Japan, it was not to do so at the expense of the ancient Japanese religion, Shinto. It has always been firmly believed that the two religions, Shinto and Buddhism, are able to coexist in harmony; rather than separate each other the two religious intertwine. This fusion of religion has been widely demonstrated in Japanese culture; reflected within the foundational design of Japanese gardens.

The Tea CeremonyFurther influences infused Japan in 1192 with the arrival of Eisai, a Buddhist monk from China. Eisai introduced the ‘Chan’, or ‘Zen’ way of teaching to Japan as well as the tea ceremony - a ritual based on the preparation and presentation of a powdered green tea (Matcha) which can be conducted indoors or outside.
Between 1333 and 1573, Zen monks promoted the tea ceremony to such an extent that the ritual was sewn into the cultural fabric of Japan, and has remained intricately fundamental to Japanese  culture ever since. Before long, Chaniwa gardens (those specifically designed for tea ceremonies) began to thrive throughout the Japanese landscape, giving a weighty indication of just how highly regarded the ceremonies became. Nonetheless, the tea ceremony’s most significant impact on Japanese garden design came between 1568 and 1600 (known as the Azuchi-Momoyama period) in which tea ceremony pavilions began to feature prominently as popular garden characteristics; lanterns, stepping stones and arched bridges were increasingly fashionable in these new gardens, which today are considered the iconic objects of Japanese gardens. As a result, these features became intrinsic to Japanese garden design- and thus the religious significance that once accompanied the creation of Japanese gardens was forfeited to accommodate those who wished to take place in alternatives past-times, or to merely enjoy a meditative environment.
Tea ceremony, Kyoto Park. 












The Edo Period


Further development occurred between 1603 and 1867 (the Edo period) when the ‘Stroll’ garden was established. These gardens were primarily created to satisfy the aristocracy of Japan by providing space for the leisure and amusements of its wealthier classes. The Stroll gardens, usually built on an aristocrat’s estate, were much more personal environments; designers would reconstruct landscapes taken from the owner’s personal experiences, or even recreate some of the most iconic places of the world. The Edo period of Japanese history is renowned for its feudal system, in which Shogun leaders (military commanders) would rule various areas of Japanese landscape. Shogun men were rewarded with land, especially Samurai warriors, for their loyalty - thus gardens were often used to demonstrate the individual and unique styles of each Samurai leader. The incorporation into the political world forced gardens into the mainstream of Japanese politics.
Stroll Garden, Sento Gosho Palace.

Indeed, as the exuberance and glamour that accompanied Japanese Garden styles began to experience the credit they deserved, businessmen and politicians were expected to display their success not only through the luxury of their homes, but through the majesty of their gardens as well. Indeed, as the power of the Emperor was diminishing in Japan, the power of the industrial man began to blossom, and along with them gardens were elevated to a much more significant status. During 1926 and 1989, the Showa period, Japan became the first East-Asian country to become industrialised. Whilst the county became more susceptible to modern influences, Western designers were just as eager to experiment with the more unusual Eastern designs. Therefore, the cultural fusion that has always dominated Japanese garden design came to a climax; the modern Western world permeated the Orient, and Japanese gardens lost the solely consecrated status they had once held, and were reborn as primarily commercial environments.
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Geisha
The World of the Geisha
The distinctive white face, red lips and elaborately decorated hairstyle of the Geisha is an enduring image portrayed throughout the globe as the entrance to a world to which most of us mere mortals are not invited. From somewhat seedy beginnings, the current world of the geisha remains a mystery to most foreigners and Japanese alike. 

 
 
Memoirs of a Geisha

Like most nations, Japan has always had some manner of pleasure quarter offering various forms of entertainment, including of course, the erotic. As Japan cut off all contact with the outside world during the Edo era, the rich merchants of the cities continued to develop the arts of the country in the major urban areas. With the many courtesans of the time providing one area of fulfilment, the merchants looked for other types of entertainment, including music, dance and poetry. From these early stages, the world of the Geisha developed, providing a service to entertain and charm, working alongside the very desirable, and for most people unobtainable, courtesan.

Girl Power

As this form of entertainment progressed, the first Geisha on the scene were actually men, appearing around the early 18th Century. Women soon caught on, and the Geisha as we know her today emerged with strict rules to not upstage the courtesans, or steal their clients. As courtesan entertainment waned after the mid 18th Century, Geisha took their place, peaking around the 1900s in Tokyo.

She’s a Modern Woman

Nowadays if you long to experience geisha culture, you must head to the cultural capital of Kyoto. Under a hundred Geisha remain in the city, living and working in the traditional tea houses as they always have done. The inevitable declining numbers due to the strict and secular world make this profession as elite and enigmatic as it always has been.
The modern Geiko (Kyoto term for Geisha) starts her life in the Kyoto Okiya (houses), these days around the age of 15, although traditionally it was much younger. After learning skills in hospitality and traditional arts, she will go on to become a Maiko – an apprentice Geiko. The young Maiko will follow her mentor and ‘older sister’ Geiko to appointments, shadowing her movements and observing the skill of repartee and reserve with the clients. As professional entertainers, the Geiko’s role is not only to play music and dance, but also to make the customers feel at ease with witty conversation and even join in drinking games as the night progresses. As an amateur, the Maiko is not expected to be as charming and amusing, and instead relies on ornate jewellery, rich kimono and young looks to speak for her.
Geiko and Maiko may have many appointments per night, starting around 4pm and working long into the early hours, scuttling from from bar to bar on their wooden Geta. Typically, they will take Sundays off, changing into jeans, wearing their hair down and going shopping like any other young woman. If you’re walking around Kyoto on a Sunday, you may be passing by Geisha without even realising it.

Mysterious Girl

If you wish to meet, and even drink with a Maiko or Geiko, it’s all about who you know and they don’t come cheap. Most only work at licensed Ochaya (Tea Houses) in the geisha districts, often veiled behind anonymous wooden doors, with small discreet signs that most passersby wouldn’t detect. For many Japanese people, even those living in Kyoto, the closest they have come is perhaps glimpsing a Geisha alighting from her taxi and disappearing behind a nameless sliding door. The Ochaya manage to keep their reputation of exclusivity with expensive bar bills and membership only rules. As a Maiko arrives at her appointment wearing sometimes hundreds of thousands of pounds worth of exquisite kimono, jewellery and hairpieces, it is imperative the Ochaya know she will be safe. The Ochaya also bill their customers per month, keeping a running tab of drinks, taxis and geisha services, requiring a great degree of trust. Potential new customers therefore are only allowed to join if a current member recommends them, and is prepared to act as a guarantor.

Sisters Are Doing It For Themselves

Inevitably, due to the demanding lifestyle of the Geisha and the pressures of the modern world, numbers are declining. Competing hostess bars, Karaoke joints and the recent economic downturn have meant tea houses have had to be less restrictive and welcome new customers and even foreign tourists. If you have the cash to splash, you may have the opportunity to meet with a Geisha, enjoy her company and play the requisite drinking games into the night.
The image of Japan is one constantly pushing forward into the future, and whilst some may say the geisha world is outmoded and losing it’s dignity, the links to the past and tradition in Japan are astoundingly enduring. As long as Japan continues to hold its rich and respected culture paramount, the world of the Geisha as we know it will continue to survive.
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Japanese Food
Rice
Once traded as currency, rice has been a staple food for the Japanese for over 2000 years and still accompanies or forms the base of many meals. Harvesting rice is very labour intensive and the Japanese are reminded of this from a very young age which is why rice is rarely wasted and so often leftover rice is put to good use. Aside from sushi, popular dishes include donburi (simmered fish, meat or vegetables served over rice), onigiri (small parcels of rice wrapped in dried seaweed), kayu (a rice porridge), mochi (pounded rice cakes) and chazuke (cooked rice with green tea often served with salmon or cod roe) to name a few.  

Seasonal & Local Food

Japan is very proud of its four very distinctive seasons and each season marks the beginning of more delicious offerings. This is very evident in supermarkets, hotels and inns and restaurants where menus are frequently changed to reflect what is available and what is in season. In fact there is such a diverse range of food on offer that it is not an exaggeration to say that many Japanese would struggle to name for example all the countless varieties of seaweed, mushrooms and fish etc.
Kaiseki cuisine (Kaiseki-ryouri) are small dishes containing up to as many as 12 beautifully presented courses of steamed, simmered or grilled dishes, sliced raw fish sashimi, tempura, soup, rice, pickles and a small desert. Dishes usually reflect what is available and in season. 
Kyoto is a great place to enjoy this wonderful treat for all the senses.    
    
With the amount of regional specialities (known as “meibutsu” in Japanese) there is no shortage of restaurants dedicated to proudly serving local dishes. One widely known dish throughout Japan is Okonomiyaki (a savoury pancake) which is famous in Osaka and Hiroshima. 
One of the best known regional dishes is Okonomiyaki (a savoury pancake) famous in Hiroshima and Osaka. A trip to Hiroshima is not complete without visiting Okonomiyaki village where watching the chefs prepare the food is as much fun as tasting this unique regional delicacy.

Fish

It’s fair to say that fish is an integral part of the Japanese diet. Whether it’s eaten live (odorigui – still dancing!) raw (nama or sashimi), grilled (yaki) or deep fried (tempura), it seems that the Japanese have tried and tested every possible method of preparation. The vast array of fish on offer is simply mind-boggling. If you’re a lover of fish then a trip to Tsukiji fish market (the world’s largest wholesale fish and seafood market) is a must for an early morning breakfast of some of the freshest prepared sushi in the world. For those that don’t like the sound of a fish breakfast in the early hours there are plenty of conveyor belt sushi restaurants (kaiten zushi) all over Japan.
Of course the food offering in Japan extends to far more than just fish. Japan has a huge variety of fruit and vegetables, a whole host of noodle dishes (including one dish served with ice!) and some of the best patisseries outside of France (some say the best in the world, although the French may dispute this!). Kobe with its wonderful array of cafes is the place to head for those with a sweet tooth. Kobe beef, a delicacy renowned worldwide is produced from cows raised according to strict tradition and provides a wonderful flavour that melts in your mouth. However, be prepared to fork out an arm and a leg for a genuine Kobe beef steak at a good restaurant!   
If everything so far sounds a bit meat and fish orientated don't be alarmed - there are plenty of vegetarian options in Japan. In fact eating meat was prohibited in Japan for more than a thousand years prior to 1868! Try the wonderful zaru soba (buck-wheat noodles served cold), a bowl of Udon (thicker noodles) in a mountain vegetable soup, tofu steak or okonomiyaki. If you are feeling adventurous you could try natto, this is a sticky and slightly smelly concoction made of fermented soya beans. The Japanese liken it to marmite - you'll either love it or hate it.

Eating Out

Eating out in Japan is as much about the experience as the food. Many Japanese restaurants specialise in one particular type of food and there are countless different styles including the famous kaiten-zushi restaurants now gaining more popularity in the west. Others include restaurants that specialise in skewers (kushiyaki), ramen (noodles in a broth), tempura (deep fried fish or vegetables), cook your own Korean style BBQ (usually with a hotplate in the table), teriyaki (marinated beef/chicken/fish seared on a hot plate), sukiyaki (thin slices of beef, bean curd and vegetables cooked in soy sauce and then dipped in egg) etc. The list goes on. Don’t rule out festival food which offers an array of interesting eats including tacoyaki (small pieces of octopus cooked in a bread dough like dumpling), kakigori (shaved ice) and okonomiyaki to name a few. 
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